If there is one ingredient dermatologists mention again and again for visible skin ageing, it is the retinoid family. It is also one that is easy to use badly. A slow, careful start makes all the difference.
What is a retinoid?
Retinoids are forms of vitamin A. The strongest are available only by prescription (such as tretinoin). Over the counter you will find milder forms: retinol, retinaldehyde and retinyl esters. Your skin converts them into the active form, so milder products work more slowly and tend to be gentler.
What the research says
Retinoids are among the best-studied topical ingredients for photoageing, meaning the changes caused mostly by sun exposure. Studies, mainly of prescription-strength products, report improvements in fine lines, texture and uneven tone with consistent use over months. Over-the-counter retinol is gentler and results are usually more modest. It does not work overnight.
How to start
- Choose a low strength. Look for a low-percentage retinol or retinaldehyde, ideally in a gentle formula.
- Apply at night to clean, completely dry skin. A pea-sized amount is enough for the entire face.
- Start slowly. Use it once or twice a week for the first two weeks, then increase if your skin is comfortable.
- Buffer if needed. Apply moisturiser first, or mix a little in with your cream, to soften the effect.
- Avoid the eye corners, the corners of the nose and the mouth at first.
Expect a bit of adjustment
Dryness, mild redness and flaking are common in the first weeks. If your skin stings, burns or becomes very red, stop for a few days and cut back. Support your skin barrier with a good moisturiser.
The non-negotiable partner: sunscreen
Retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sun. Apply a broad-spectrum SPF every morning. See Sunscreen 101.
Who should not use it, or should ask first
- Pregnancy and breastfeeding. Retinoids are generally not recommended. Ask your doctor.
- Very sensitive skin, eczema, rosacea or active dermatitis.
- Recent peels, lasers or other procedures.
What about massage tools?
Skip massage and tools on nights when your skin feels tender or flaky. A calm, irritated face does not need extra friction.
For the bigger picture on what happens with time, read How Skin and Face Change With Age. A dermatologist can help you choose the right retinoid for your skin.
The takeaway: low, slow and sunscreen. Patience is the active ingredient.
This article is for general information and does not replace medical advice.
